Touring and Wine Tasting in the Languedoc
21/05/08 07:47
Take a trip through the Languedoc- and mainly the
Aude, to discover the vineyards, Chateau and Domaines
that are producing wonderful wines.
The Magic of Minervois
The Minervois is one of the best known wine regions in the Languedoc in the deep south of France. Its attractions are manifold – beautiful scenery, charming villages, colourful local markets and a turbulent history of religious oppression and bloodshed. And, of course, the wines. The Minervois is also the source of some of the Languedoc’s finest wines and is a wonderful region for wine lovers to explore.
There are nearly 10,000 acres of rolling vineyards which stretch south and east from the fairytale castle of Carcassonne, across the foothills of the brooding Black Mountains down onto the plains towards the Canal du Midi. Within this sprawling region can be found a huge diversity of wine styles, from fragrant dry whites, to concentrated, elegant long-lived red wines, from thirst-quenching rosés to luscious and scented sweet wines.
There are hundreds of producers in the Minervois. The best producers are all passionate about making good wine but what is fascinating is the different ways that can be achieved. Some are traditional, making wine in modest cellars that have changed little in generations and choose to intervene in winemaking as little as possible. Some have invested in modern cellars and stainless steel tanks to control quality at every stage. Others take an anarchic approach and make wine from non-authorised grapes and experiment with different winemaking techniques.
One of the most interesting characters is Pierre Cros, in the sleepy village of Badens whose approach can be described as ‘traditional anarchic’. His eclectic tasting room pays homage to his passion for rugby as well as to wine and his range of wines includes a barrel aged Pinot Noir (a variety seldom grown in the Languedoc) and ‘Mal Amies’ a fruity red from ‘unloved’, Languedoc varieties, Aramon, Piquepoul Noir and Alicante. Plus he makes excellent Minervois reds. Also in Badens is Chateau de la Grave, just off the main road. The Orosquette family have 100 hectares and have an extensive range of vin de pays and Minervois wines of all colours. Their white wines are particularly good with a beautiful freshness.
The best red wines are made on the slopes of the Black Mountains, surrounding the village of La Livinière. Here the climate is cooler and the grapes ripen more slowly, developing more intense flavours and the wines are concentrated and finely structured with intriguing aromas of herbs and black olives. Most benefit ageing. Wander through the streets of the village and you will come across several producers which make classic La Livinière reds. Domaine Piccinini, Domaine des Murettes and Domaine la Combe Blanche are all good. As is Domaine Ste Eulalie, just outside the village, in a pretty valley.
One of the most historic properties near La Livinière is Massamier la Mignarde which can trace its history back to Roman times. Despite its 18th century chateau and air of faded grandeur, the wines have a modern twist. Their top wine, Domus Maximus, won the title of ‘best syrah based wine in the world’ at a wine competition in London. Perhaps even better is their other La Liviniere red, Tenement de Garruilghas, which was fermented and aged in oak barrels.
Many foreigners have been attracted to the Minervois and have bought vineyards here. In many cases they have brought fresh ideas (as well as much needed cash) and have revamped dilapidated properties and vineyards, greatly improving wine quality. St Jacques d’Albas, near Laure Minervois, is in the process of being beautifully restored by its current owner, Englishman Graham Nutter. The cellar is full of gleaming stainless steel tanks and the state-of-the-art barrel cellar is a delight! British influence can also be found at Domaine la Bouscade. David Cowderoy used to by a flying winemaker, making wine all over the world but chose the Minervois to settle with his family. His first vintage was 2005 and they make a finely crafted range of wines or real concentration and class.
St Jean de Minervois, in the remote northeastern corner of the Minervois is a haven for lovers of sweet wines. Here, on the chalk white soils, the appellation is for fragrant sweet, fortified wines from the Muscat grape. Barrubio makes the best and a tasting through their range is an education in how to make sweet wine as well as an eye opener to the versatility of Muscat as a complement to different foods, from foie gras to blue cheese. John Bojanowski (another foreigner, this time American) at Clos du Gravillas makes a fine sweet Muscat, as well as characterful reds. The co-operative at St Jean de Minervois also has a good reputation for its sweet Muscat and is excellent value.
Talking of co-operatives, they are the lifeblood of Languedoc wine industry and dominate production. Every village has a co-operative, usually a rather forbidding 1930s building with enormous concrete or stainless steel tanks outside. Many of them are open for tasting and it is fun watching locals fill up their plastic bidons from the tanks with a petrol pump nozzle. (Although at around 90 centimes a litre wine is a lot cheaper than petrol!). Quality can be variable though. Les Trois Bloisons in Azillanet has a good range and a bright, modern tasting room. La Livinière co-op is also worth visiting, as is the cave at Pouzols, right beside the main road.
The many different faces of wine making in the Minervois makes it a rich hunting ground for wine lovers and a wonderful region to explore. As many of the wines are little known outside the area there is a real sense of discovery and adventure. Making the Minervois a simply magical place to visit.
Juliet Bruce Jones is a Master of Wine who lives in the Minervois. She runs wine tours throughout the Languedoc www.wine-food-languedoc.com and wine weekends at www.chateauventenac.com/winemarch08.htm
The Minervois is one of the best known wine regions in the Languedoc in the deep south of France. Its attractions are manifold – beautiful scenery, charming villages, colourful local markets and a turbulent history of religious oppression and bloodshed. And, of course, the wines. The Minervois is also the source of some of the Languedoc’s finest wines and is a wonderful region for wine lovers to explore.
There are nearly 10,000 acres of rolling vineyards which stretch south and east from the fairytale castle of Carcassonne, across the foothills of the brooding Black Mountains down onto the plains towards the Canal du Midi. Within this sprawling region can be found a huge diversity of wine styles, from fragrant dry whites, to concentrated, elegant long-lived red wines, from thirst-quenching rosés to luscious and scented sweet wines.
There are hundreds of producers in the Minervois. The best producers are all passionate about making good wine but what is fascinating is the different ways that can be achieved. Some are traditional, making wine in modest cellars that have changed little in generations and choose to intervene in winemaking as little as possible. Some have invested in modern cellars and stainless steel tanks to control quality at every stage. Others take an anarchic approach and make wine from non-authorised grapes and experiment with different winemaking techniques.
One of the most interesting characters is Pierre Cros, in the sleepy village of Badens whose approach can be described as ‘traditional anarchic’. His eclectic tasting room pays homage to his passion for rugby as well as to wine and his range of wines includes a barrel aged Pinot Noir (a variety seldom grown in the Languedoc) and ‘Mal Amies’ a fruity red from ‘unloved’, Languedoc varieties, Aramon, Piquepoul Noir and Alicante. Plus he makes excellent Minervois reds. Also in Badens is Chateau de la Grave, just off the main road. The Orosquette family have 100 hectares and have an extensive range of vin de pays and Minervois wines of all colours. Their white wines are particularly good with a beautiful freshness.
The best red wines are made on the slopes of the Black Mountains, surrounding the village of La Livinière. Here the climate is cooler and the grapes ripen more slowly, developing more intense flavours and the wines are concentrated and finely structured with intriguing aromas of herbs and black olives. Most benefit ageing. Wander through the streets of the village and you will come across several producers which make classic La Livinière reds. Domaine Piccinini, Domaine des Murettes and Domaine la Combe Blanche are all good. As is Domaine Ste Eulalie, just outside the village, in a pretty valley.
One of the most historic properties near La Livinière is Massamier la Mignarde which can trace its history back to Roman times. Despite its 18th century chateau and air of faded grandeur, the wines have a modern twist. Their top wine, Domus Maximus, won the title of ‘best syrah based wine in the world’ at a wine competition in London. Perhaps even better is their other La Liviniere red, Tenement de Garruilghas, which was fermented and aged in oak barrels.
Many foreigners have been attracted to the Minervois and have bought vineyards here. In many cases they have brought fresh ideas (as well as much needed cash) and have revamped dilapidated properties and vineyards, greatly improving wine quality. St Jacques d’Albas, near Laure Minervois, is in the process of being beautifully restored by its current owner, Englishman Graham Nutter. The cellar is full of gleaming stainless steel tanks and the state-of-the-art barrel cellar is a delight! British influence can also be found at Domaine la Bouscade. David Cowderoy used to by a flying winemaker, making wine all over the world but chose the Minervois to settle with his family. His first vintage was 2005 and they make a finely crafted range of wines or real concentration and class.
St Jean de Minervois, in the remote northeastern corner of the Minervois is a haven for lovers of sweet wines. Here, on the chalk white soils, the appellation is for fragrant sweet, fortified wines from the Muscat grape. Barrubio makes the best and a tasting through their range is an education in how to make sweet wine as well as an eye opener to the versatility of Muscat as a complement to different foods, from foie gras to blue cheese. John Bojanowski (another foreigner, this time American) at Clos du Gravillas makes a fine sweet Muscat, as well as characterful reds. The co-operative at St Jean de Minervois also has a good reputation for its sweet Muscat and is excellent value.
Talking of co-operatives, they are the lifeblood of Languedoc wine industry and dominate production. Every village has a co-operative, usually a rather forbidding 1930s building with enormous concrete or stainless steel tanks outside. Many of them are open for tasting and it is fun watching locals fill up their plastic bidons from the tanks with a petrol pump nozzle. (Although at around 90 centimes a litre wine is a lot cheaper than petrol!). Quality can be variable though. Les Trois Bloisons in Azillanet has a good range and a bright, modern tasting room. La Livinière co-op is also worth visiting, as is the cave at Pouzols, right beside the main road.
The many different faces of wine making in the Minervois makes it a rich hunting ground for wine lovers and a wonderful region to explore. As many of the wines are little known outside the area there is a real sense of discovery and adventure. Making the Minervois a simply magical place to visit.
Juliet Bruce Jones is a Master of Wine who lives in the Minervois. She runs wine tours throughout the Languedoc www.wine-food-languedoc.com and wine weekends at www.chateauventenac.com/winemarch08.htm