Wine in the
Languedoc – an overview
The Aude is the cradle of winemaking in
the Languedoc. Vines were first planted near Narbonne by
the Romans in 118 AD and viticulture flourished in the
expanding Roman colony. Today the vine is by the most
important crop in the Aude and it influences not only the
landscape but also the economics and politics of the
region.
Although co-operatives still dominate production, there are
many excellent private producers. Some of them are long
established but many come from families who have been grape
growers for generations but have only recently decided to
‘go it alone’ and make their own wine. The younger
generation of vignerons have often gone to wine school and
broadened their knowledge further by working elsewhere and
have brought home their expertise and fresh ideas. Other
producers have come from other parts of France or abroad,
attracted by the extraordinary beauty of the region and its
potential to make great wine. All these producers share a
common goal – to make good wine and express the unique
terroir of the Languedoc.
Vine varieties are similar to those throughout the
Mediterranean south. Carignan and Grenache are the most
widely grown but Syrah and Mouvedre are increasingly
planted, the latter performing well near the coast.
Cinsault is also popular for rosé wine as well as forming
part of the blend for many reds. Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot
and Malbec make vin de pays wines throughout the Aude and
are permitted in the appellations surrounding Carcassonne.
White wines are a minority but can be excellent and are
made from Grenache Blanc, marsanne, roussanne and
bourboulenc and vermentino while Vin de Pays whites are
made from all the main international varieties chardonnay,
sauvignon blanc, viognier.
The varied topography and climate in the Aude has given
rise to a huge diversity of wine styles, from stylish
sparkling wine from Limoux to brooding, spicy reds from
Corbières and Fitou. Nearest the coast is the
unfortuntately named but beautiful La Clape massif which
separates Narbonne from the Mediterranean. This is the
driest wine region in the Languedoc and so the vineyards
are naturally low yielding and the sea breezes and altitude
combine to give the wines a freshness and a fine structure
which sets them apart. The wines are designated Coteaux du
Languedoc and producers of note are Chateau la Roquette, Domaine Pech-Redon, Chateau de la Negly
and the impressive
Domaine
L’Hospitalet.
The most extensive and varied wine region in the Aude is
the Corbières which stretches all the way from the coastal
plain by Narbonne to the Mont d’ Alaric, overlooking
Carcassonne and south to Mont Tauch and the foothills of
the Pyrenèes. The wine legislators have officially divided
this vast region into 11 different sub-regions to reflect
the diversity of terroir. Corbières wines comes in all
colours but is predominantly red and styles vary from
fruity, rustic wines from based on Carignan for everyday
drinking to deep flavoured, herby wines of real class and
ageing potential. There are over 400 producers in
Corbières. Voulte Gasparets, Mansenoble, Domaine de Lastours, Domaine de Grand Gres are just a few
of many worth mentioning and the Cooperative at
Castelmaure is the best co-op in the Languedoc.
Nestled in 2 distinct areas in the south of Corbières, is
Fitou which has the distinction of being the first table
wine region in the Languedoc to be awarded an appellation
in 1948. The terrain here is rugged and mountainous and the
wines almost exclusively red, made from Carignan and
Grenache with some Syrah and Mourvedre. The wines are warm,
spicy and herby with the Mount Tauch co-operative
and Domaine Bertrand-Bergé particularly good producers.
Moving from Narbonne towards Carcassonne, the climate
changes with the Atlantic influences becoming increasingly
predominant. The dynamic appellation of Cabardès, north of
Carcassonne, illustrates this climatic shift. The wines
have to made from a blend of ‘atlantic’ (ie Bordeaux)
varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, franc, merlot and
malbec with Mediterranean varieties, the usual suspects
Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Mourvedre. The wines combine
the blackcurranty fruitiness and elegance of Bordeaux with
the spice and breadth of the Mediterranean. Pennautier
makes very polished Cabardès but Domaine Cabrol, Domaine O and Domaine Jouclary are also making
waves. Cotes de La Malpere is similar to Cabardès in
that it is a cocktail of Atlantic and Mediterranean
grapes with the difference that Bordeaux varieties
predominate and Carignan is forbidden. The Co-operative
of Razes dominates production but a few small produces
are starting to make their mark.
Limoux is cool climate Languedoc and is justly famous for
its sparkling wines which it has been making for 100s of
years. Indeed locals claim the ‘champagne’ was invented in
Limoux, well before Dom Perignon worked out how to get
bubbles to stay in wine. Blanquette de Limoux in the
traditional fizz and is made from the Mauzac grape with
chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. Cremant de Limoux is a
slightly more modern style and is largely with Chenin Blanc
and Chardonnay with a dash of Pinot Noir. Another local
speciality is methode ancestrale which is slightly sweet
and fizzy made exclusively from Mauzac. Limoux is also well
known for its still wines made from Chardonnay, cleverly
promoted by an annual auction ‘toques et clochers’ where
top chefs encourage the bidding for barrels of chardonnay.
Thanks to
Juliet Bruce Jones for this article. She is a MW and runs
Wine Tours in the Aude. Look at her
site
Read more about Wines from the Languedoc
HERE
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